Collecting Compacts by Tracy Martin

Powder compacts come in all shapes and sizes, some depicting historical events, others epitomising the eras in which they were manufactured. Although completely individual in design all have the same purpose - to hold those vital cosmetics that us ladies cannot live without.

Each morning women wake up and apply their make up without a second thought but this was not always so. Ladies who wore make-up were not favoured by society in the late 18^th century and a law was passed by Parliament declaring any woman that adorned herself was dabbling in witchcraft and was liable to punishment.

Even into the early part of the 20^th Century a woman wearing make up was sometimes referred to as “immoral” or “a lady of the night”. Fortunately all this was to change in the 1920s when adornment became far more acceptable especially with the glamorous silver screen stars setting the fashion trends and influencing females to follow.

During this decade face powder was exported from France but it was the USA that supplied the UK with decorative and stylised compacts. Manufacturers such as Elgin and Richard Hudnut are just two of the popular makers’ names that are sought after by collectors. When buying look out for good examples, especially the geometric enamel designs as they are highly desirable and worth as much as £150 - £200 if in mint condition.

Left:- Richard Hudnut 'Profiles' finger ring compact in original box

Also at the height of fashion during the 1920s were tasselled compacts, made entirely from Bakelite, the trendy “Flapper” girls favoured this particular design. The main body of the compact was generally round in shape with a long carrying cord and tassel decoration. Harder to come by, especially in good condition, today these compacts can change hands for as much as £200+.

Another manufacturer that commands a high price on the secondary market is Gwenda, their compacts were decorated using butterfly wings or foil and can cost from £75 upwards for a true butterfly wing example. An alternative to single compacts during this era were complete vanity cases which housed additional vanity items such as lipsticks, combs or pencils but if buying make sure that all the components are present because this could effect the price.

Towards the end of the 1930s the outbreak of WW2 meant production in fashion and cosmetic houses was restricted or in most cases ceased, especially in occupied France. This included the making of compacts, although some were put into production at the very beginning of the war for the armed forces to purchase for their sweethearts as love tokens.

Left:- American compact in the shape of an officer's hat

Elegance and glamour was not reinstated again until 1947 when French Fashion Couture House “Christian Dior” introduced its “New Look”. This paved the way for other fashion manufacturers, one of the first to start production in the compact industry was the British company Vogue Vanities. A typical new look to compacts in the 1950s was to produce them in a larger size (approximately 9.5cm in diameter) and there are many Vogue Vanities examples in this style. One of their most well-known, sought after designs is “Equestrian” (1951) which features a romantic couple on horseback and now sells for £85 on the secondary market.

The most famous British maker of powder compacts is the company “Stratton”; originally founded in 1923 it is responsible for a vast amount of the compacts available to collectors. Stratton was extremely innovative in its design using every image you could imagine to adorn the compacts. They also took an interest in the working mechanisms behind compacts. The self-opening lid was an innovative invention by Stratton and alerted buyers to the fact that Stratton compacts prevented ladies’ nails being damaged when opening it up. By the 1960s Stratton’s vanity items became so popular that there were agents selling all over the world. Unfortunately compacts fell out of fashion during the 1980s and the company was sold in the late 1990s. The name “Stratton” is still in existence today but their products are no longer being manufactured in the UK.

Above:- Stratton Birthday compact with original box

Within the collecting market the most sought after compacts are the novelty ones. The rarest one known to be in existence is by the famous surrealist painter and sculptor, Salvador Dali. He was commissioned to design a compact for American manufacturer “Elgin” in the 1950s. The result, “Bird-in-Hand” was produced in three different finishes - silver, sterling silver and satin bronze. It was not only a powder compact but also a lipstick was concealed in the bird’s head and its tail was a pillbox. Should you be lucky enough to find one of these gems then expect to stump up at least £1,500, maybe even more because this work of art is worth its weight in gold to compact collectors.

There are cheaper novelty compacts on the market if you cannot afford one designed by Dali. “Kigu” produced two versions of the “Flying Saucer”, the musical one is the most popular with collectors, selling for as much as £500+ if in perfect working order. The second version does not have the musical mechanism but still costs £200+ on the secondary market.

Left:- Kigu 'Flying Saucer musical compact compact with enameled finish

If this still seems a bit steep then there are numerous modern powder compacts on the market that you can still buy at retail price. The leading manufacturer is Estee Lauder who produces novelty compacts to hold both powder and solid perfume. Each year a new range is released and exclusives are sold from Harrods in London. One of their powder compact ranges, the “Zodiac”, was originally launched in 1997 but they have since updated their design with a new goldtone “Zodiac” set of 12 compacts all depicting a different star sign. These compacts retail at £50 each and you can decide whether you just want to buy your own star sign or try and collect all 12.

Christian Dior are constantly aware of the importance that packaging plays in the cosmetics industry. They are continually bringing out innovative new compacts to house lip-glosses, eye shadows or powders. “Girlie” was available last summer in Dior’s branded pink design, it retailed at £32 but because it was used by one of the contestants on Channel 4’s reality television show “Big Brother” this compact was selling for £67 on internet auctions within days of release and became the “must have” item for every girl’s handbag during the summer months.

The world of collecting powder compacts is so vast that it’s difficult to know where to start. Some people concentrate on collecting certain manufacturers, others stick to themes and then of course the novelty compacts’ appeal across the board. These products were originally made to use and I feel still should be. So whether you are buying for practical reasons or to display in a cabinet it is always best to stick to the golden rule of collecting - only buy what you like

TIPS

Only buy good condition compacts, especially look out for missing enamel on the art deco ones.
Ensure that the lid closes snugly – you don’t want loose powder spilling out.
Check musical mechanisms are working when purchasing.
If bought with original box or pouch keep as this adds to the value and keeps the compact in good condition.
Check the mirror to make sure there is no damage.

Cleaning your compacts

Never wash as the water can get under the mirrors.
Use a toothbrush to brush away surplus powder.
Wipe surfaces with a soft cloth.
Methylated spirits on a cotton bud is perfect for removing adhesive labels.
As mentioned before storing in their original pouches or boxes keeps the compacts in good condition.

TIPS

FURTHER READING