| Collecting
Costume
Jewellery |
| by Tracy Martin |
| For
centuries women and men have adorned themselves with decorative
jewellery whether it was to show a symbol of status or even ward off the
evil spirits, more often though it was to enhance their beauty and tie
in with fashion trends. Jewellery comes in all forms from semi-precious
stoned fine jewellery to the more fun and robust costume jewellery.
So with the festive party season just around the corner what
better subject to cover than the bright vivid colours of costume
jewellery that will compliment any party frock!
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| The term
costume jewellery is essentially referring to the non-precious jewellery
created with faux pearls and imitation stones usually set in a cheaper
base metal than silver or gold. Although for centuries people have worn
decorative objects it was not until the 20th century that
this term was derived and an abundance of beautifully crafted jewellery
began to appear on the market. This new costume jewellery was so stylish
that it became sometimes more desirable than even precious stoned
pieces.
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| Appearing
in various guises costume jewellery includes everything from earrings to
bracelets and pins to necklaces. Top French Couture fashion houses to
smaller but collectable jewellery makers have produced stunning pieces.
The signed items are usually more sought after by collectors but even
unsigned pieces are now being collected and more appreciated. |
Above:-
1930's bakelite hinged bakelite bracelet with nautical theme
|
Costume
jewellery really came home in the mid 1930s. The robust material
Bakelite was used right through the 1920s and 1930s, as it was easy to
work into the geometric forms made so fashionable during this period.
Being so brightly coloured it was also the perfect material for teaming
up with rhinestones and chrome metalwork.
Bakelite jewellery especially pieces from this era are extremely
sought after by collectors and prices range from as little as £25 for a
pin to as much as £250 for revival Egyptian pendants. |
| Trifari
is
another highly collected jewellery maker. Born in Naples in 1883 he
settled in New York in the early part of the 20th Century,
setting up the company Trifari, Krussman and Fishel with his sales
manager and salesman in 1925. Their success really started in the 1930s
and was made possible by the chief designer Alfred Philippe. His
talented technique for using high quality Austrian Swarovski crystals
combined with the invisible setting process which before had only been
used in fine jewellery making ensured that Trifari costume jewellery was
as popular, but much more affordable.
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| There
are various styles found in Trifari’s jewellery embracing all periods
such as Neo-classical and Art Deco, the earlier pieces created in the
30s and 40s are more sought after than the later 50s and 60s thus
commanding higher prices on the secondary market.
A 1940s Jelly Belly Seal Pin designed by Alfred Phillippe
can reach as much as £500 where a more affordable 1950s Bee Pin
with purple enamel and gold-plated casting would only cost £30-£40.
Right:-
Trifari flower brooch from the 1940's
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| “Buy
Trifari from the 1st period in the 1930s as this is more
collectable and also look out for vintage Chanel pieces” advises
Judith Miller who has just released her new book on Costume Jewellery
published by Dorling Kindersley. An extensive guide to the makers and
their pieces, - along with current market prices this is a book that any
costume jewellery collector should own. |
| “Costume
Jewellery has been an area over looked for far too many years but now
collectors and dealers are recognising quality pieces and the market is
on the up.” Judith explained to me. |
 |
Designer
costume jewellery such as
Chanel and
Dior have always commanded higher
prices and these are especially enhanced when found with original boxes
and packaging. “If a piece still has its box, the value of the
jewellery can be increased up to 30 per cent”, Judith quotes in her
new book.
Left:-
Chanel brushed goldtone finish brooch with faux pearls & emeralds,
1930's |
| Eugene
Joseff is also a favourite of Judith Millers; he was one of
Hollywood’s leading suppliers of costume jewellery for films such as
Breakfast at Tiffany’s and My Fair Lady. Nearly all of his work is
stamped “Joseff” or “Joseff of Hollywood” but the company Joseff
have recently reissued some items to keep up with demand, although still
highly collectable these items are a little cheaper than the originals.
Expect to pay as much as £280 for an original Sun God pin or £160
for a pair of Pendant Owl Head earrings.
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|
Butler
and Wilson are also a name to look out for; Nicky Butler and Simon
Wilson opened their shop at the beginning of the 1970s and produced
diamante-studded designs based on reproduction periods.
One of the most recognisable pins is that of the Dancing
Couple and costs around £50 on the secondary market.
Right:-
Butler & Wilson Champagne Glass brooch, 1980's
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 |
Along
with myself Judith has a passion for
Lea Stein jewellery (see Collect
it! issue 86). Lea was born in Paris and married Fernand Steinberger in
the 1950s. Fernand discovered the process of laminating celluloid, also
known as Rhodoid and this enabled Lea to create innovative figural
designs. Producing items such as earrings, bangles and rings her more
popular and well-known designs are the pins.
Left:-
Lea Stein Butterfly brooches launched in 2005 |
| Another
Parisian designer is Marie-Christine Pavone. This particular
designer’s work is not vintage but currently being made from her home
in France. Pavone’s work is made out of a material called galalith.
Discovered by two German researchers who solidified milk casein by
adding small amounts of formaldehyde, the word Galalith is a combination
of Gala the Greek meaning for milk and lithos Greek for stone. This
particular material predated Bakelite and was used originally for making
everyday items such as buttons, it accepts colour easily and produces a
high gloss finish. . Pavone jewellery designs are predominantly cats in
various colours and are much thicker and chunkier than Stein but are
still fun and whimsical. Highly polished, each item of Pavone jewellery
is hand painted and hand cut so no two pieces are exactly the same.
Although relatively new to the costume jewellery market Pavone
prices are on the up varying from £50 - £80 for Tintin the Cat to £100
- £130 for the chunky cat bracelets.
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| With so
much on offer it is a personal decision on what to collect in costume
jewellery, there are so many well know designers and innovative pieces
that it really is difficult to choose. Judith Miller’s advice is
“Buy because you like it and if the item is striking do not worry if
it is unsigned”. This to me is sound advice and definitely worth
taking on board because if you like it then someone else will love it.
Right:- Marie-Christine
Pavone Cat Bracelet
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INTERESTING FACTS
- Madonna wore a
Trifari pin and earrings in the blockbuster movie “Evita”.
- The rich copied
their precious jewellery in paste when travelling in the 18th
century in case of being stopped by a highway man and having it
stolen.
- In 1948 Eugene
Joseff was tragically killed in a plane crash.
- Andy Warhol
owned a large collection of Bakelite jewellery that he sold in 1988.
- It is believed
that Lea Stein spent most of her childhood in a concentration camp
during WW2.
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FURTHER READING
Costume
Jewellery by Judith Miller
Published
by Dorling Kindersley
ISBN
: 1 4053 0014 0
Priced
: £20.00 |
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Article by kind permission
of Tracy Martin for Collect It! Magazine November 2004
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Title photograph:- Chapeau Fath, Paris
1951 © Editions du Desastre Other
photographs ©
Decogirl
2006 |
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